The scene is quite beautiful: A mid-summer evening, a romantic stroll down some thirty-seven hundred steps (this could be an exaggeration) as the sun lowers its head and the Adriatic sea gently laps into the concrete shore that awaits at the foot of those never-ending stairs.
Saturday last we were invited to Susanna and Stefano’s annual ‘Dinner in the Cave’. This is no ordinary cave either, and for the Australians amongst the readership, it’s more like a boat shed but it’s been carved out of a smaller previously existing cave-like space to become big enough to house a boat, fishing gear, swimming accessories and various other things needed during the summer. The “cave” has been in the family for decades and over the years improvements have been made so that it also contains a kitchen running along one wall complete with two gas-ring burners, an oven, a double porcelain sink with hot and cold running water and the obligatory kitchen cupboards that have curtains instead of doors. The old days saw people walking back up the once-then steep track (now a monsterous set of stairs) to take care of ablusions but now there is also a tiny but servicable bathroom. One completely tiled space with a toilet and vanity one end and a shower head the other. Like a walk-in cubboard but place a toilet and shower in there instead, and your mind should be able to picture this. Oh and there is a light as well so you don’t have to be completely in a cupboard. This also has a curtain rather than a door.
Usually these dinners are full of surprises and the guest list could be quite different from the year before, or not. The menu, however, is usually the same and the real reason I am usually so keen to go. Usually Stefano and an accomplice go diving for mussels off the rocks close to “la grotta” (cave, in Italian) the afternoon of the dinner. Collecting mussels ‘for personal use’ is acceptable up to a certain amount, as there are supposedly strict rules to control over-fishing the Adriatic. Our dinner of ten goes within this limit I’m told, so we’re ethically ok…
Like all modern fairy tales, this year’s ‘Dinner in a Cave’ has a twist. Imagine my surprise (or dismay) when arriving at the foot of the stairs I detect the indistinguishable aroma of heavily garlic-laced sausages. Quickly rearranging my face, I move to greet my hosts and dive into the cave/boatshed/kitchen to see what I can do to help (but really to see what else is on the menu. You saw through that, right?). I’m handed a green-handled sharper-than-sharp knife and too rather menacing looking salami to cut up and arrange on white plastic plates. One salami looks like it’s just come from hell, it looks so hot, and I discover that it’s definitely “piccante” (spicy) but not too hot.
Roberto, in the meantime, has made the same adjustment to his face but instead stays around the barbecue as there is something magnetic that attracts men to these contraptions. He chats for a moment to one of the hosts and another guest outside on the concreted deck, while I make myself busy cutting without slicing my fingers. Roberto can’t resist a kitchen and food prep for too long so he wanders in to take a look into a large deep pan slowly sizzling away. What he sees makes him happy and tells one of the hosts that the “soffritto” looks promising and asks about the first course. She tells him what’s in it and says to wait until he’s tasted it before making any other statements. My nose confuses me because I can’t pick up the usual perfume of carrot, celery and onion frying away but something else.
Soon most of the crowd have arrived, save three people and Susanna declares it’s time to teach these people who can’t be on time a lesson. We chat briefly about “Italian time” and I partially agree except in our house I’m usually the one who is running late. Roberto loves being on time, whereas I’m more casual when it comes to a leisure-time event. This evening he’s managed to get me out the door to arrive before 8.00pm, as requested. We start eating and the host instructs someone to continuously call the other three missing guests until we have an answer. One of them has been called away to another town a few hours south of where we are and the other two were supposed to arrive on time to tell us. Nevertheless, the first course (following that spicy salami) proves to be too good to just have one plate.
Susanna tells us that she could smell it cooking a few ‘caves’ down earlier this summer and she ran to find out what was in it. This is it, and if you think it has too many ingredients, hold that thought and make this anyway – it’s fantastic, full of flavor and 100% vegetarian!
Ingredients:
- sundried tomatoes, chopped – whole garlic cloves, quarterd – oregano (dried or fresh) – capers, rinsed – black olives – pine nuts – extra virgin olive oil
- fresh cherry tomatoes, quartered – Mature Pecorino chees (grated) – basil leaves (fresh, ripped) – flat leaf parsely (fresh, ripped)
- Pasta (penne or something to hold the sauce
Method:
Drizzle olive oil in a hot pan and toss in all ingredients in 1, then turn down the heat and let the flavors cook in. Bring a pot of water to the boil, add rock salt (or any salt, adds flavor to the pasta), as water is boiling throw in the pasta and cook to ‘al dente’. Strain the pasta and reserve some of the cooking water, keep hot. Throw pasta into the simmering mixture and turn off the heat (of Pan 1). Mix through. Add all prepared parts from 2, toss to combine and release the basil and parsley aroma. Bring the pan or dish to the table and serve immediately. Keep a lid on it while guests are eating as they will want more!
After this fantastic pasta (Rob went back 3 times, I had it twice), came the grigliata mista (simply: mixed grill). Grilled pork steaks, costellete (ribs), garlic-laced sausages, a huge dish of caponata (eggplant, garlic and tomatoes chopped and cooked down in the oven) and the obligatory backed tomatoes, stuffed with breadcrumbs (and yes, more garlic).
Both meals were accompanied with some tasty Pecorino – a white wine that seems to be flavor of the day at our house recently and a Rosso Conero – our local red wine, grown in the Conero region here in Le Marche.
And the missing guests? One of them arrived after I had got stuck into my second bowl of THE pasta and rob was on his third but we had been a little controlled because there was still some left in the large lidded pot.
Sure, no fish on this particular evening but sometimes the unexpected is pleasantly surprising. The next ‘Dinner in a Cave’ invite might come our way and if it does, I will do my best to accept without expectation.





















